Mr. Turbo advertises on his website that he has a B12 and a kit for $2,695. Adjustable from 150-250 hp. However, I talked to a guy at Bikeweek that claimed to work for Mr. Turbo, he said you could only turn the boost to 150 hp without switching to forged pistons. By the way, at the Horsepower shootout at the Motocycle Institute during Bikeweek, the winner overall was a ZX-11 with 494.9 Hp, with Mr. Turbo and Nitrous.
There are a couple of things that are interesting about the web page (Mr. Turbo, my note).
For one thing, they show an open exhaust, so the street kit would have twice as much plumbing past the header to get the exhaust through a muffler.
"An adjustable horsepower range of 150-250 H.P." seems to indicate that they are letting you run anywhere from 3psi to 15psi on the same turbo. That means the turbo is going to take much longer than necessary to spool up to the 4 or 5psi you could run on the street.
If you talk to them, inquire about getting a smaller turbo in the kit with a max of 8 or 9 psi. Anything past 6, maybe 7 without an intercooler will get ugly anyway, and 6psi will probably net you 160-170hp.
I called the guys at Mr. Turbo a month or two ago to talk about the system shown on their Web page. It was a one-off built for a customer. They also market kits with complete exhaust systems (including mufflers that are quiet).
I also spoke with a guy who has installed the turbo kit in his personal B12 and who makes occassional passes at the strip. He normally leaves boost at the lowest (8 pounds, i think) for street riding. That's good for 140 hp at the wheel. At the track he juices it considerably higher. At max boost, the system pounds out about 250 hp. Egads.
In the four months or so he's had it, he's had NO problems other than clutch. Bandit clutches are not meant to handle greater than 120 hp--no matter what kind of oil you run. There are several options for beefing up the clutch to handle the extra power. Personally, don't know if I could hope to fully use more than, say, 130 horses on the street (where I spend all my time), but it WOULD be an awesome rush, I'll bet, to unleash upwards of 200 horsepower, nicht?
By steve rice on Tuesday, April 4, 2000 - 11:59 am @ dragbike.com Public Forum:
To all who want to know.
I currently am using a SBM solid cylinder block, MTC liners and pistons. .003" press on the sleeves, 78mm (1109)at .0015"
piston to wall.
O Ringed cylinder block with .040" stainless wire, with .013" protrusion. the sleeves are standing .003" above the cylinder block
and the cylinder head has receiver grooves machines in, they are .070" wide and .020" deep, with square edges to help "bite"
the .045" Copper Gasket Unlimited half hard copper head gasket. It is about 2 years old at this point. The cylinder does not
use a base gasket.
I am holding the head down with 1/2" studs that I had made. The engine cases have oversize 7/16" studs also. Head is torque
is 45 ft lbs. engine cases to 30 lbs.
Camshafts are stock, lobe centers set at 102 exasut and 104 intake. Valve springs are R and D with 85lbs on the seat, there is
no port work, but a couple of years ago I had Freedom Motorsports install bronze valve seats. Valve clearance is .007" to .009"
on the exasut and .006" to .008" on the intake
Crankshaft is stock, with modifications to the oil holes to ensure oil doesnt cavitate on the main holes at rpm above 11000. I
have installed a 1/2" steel plate on the main bearing cap for reinforcment (like a main bearing cap on a Z1). Carillo Rods set as
close to .003" as possible.
I lubricate the engine with the stock oil pump with a piston type pressure releif valve that has been shimmed to 100lbs. I have
also restricted the oil to the cams at the banjo bolt. There is originally a .145" oil hole, I weld it up and redrill to .085".
Oil pressure runs right at 100lbs down track.
I use Mobil 1 15w/50 automotive oil that we buy at Wal-Mart.
This will all be coverd as Marty Kane does his article on building the Top Eliminator. So Stay tuned.
And that is the straight skinny. I hope that helps.